FAQ
Ask an expert
Be an informed homeowner and know best how to care for your system, optimizing savings and comfort along the way! Provided are answers to common questions and myths, but do not hesitate to contact us to learn more!
How often should I change my filter?
We live in an extreme climate, so change your filters every 30 days with normal use. If you like to set your thermostat below 78 degrees in Summer or have lost of pets, consider more frequent changes. This will protect your system, help prevent condensate clogs/water damage, avoid costly coil cleans, prevent icing, and keep your utility bills lower. If there’s a “carpet” lining the filter, you’re overdue!
What is the best type of filter to use?
The “cheapest” white-pleated is recommended for most systems. The “Brillo-pad” filters only stop the bowling ball from entering the system! The more expensive, thicker white-pleated filters yield better air quality, but are more dense and make the system work harder.
Do I really need routine maintenance?
YES! Like a safety inspection for your car, our inspection ensures all is working well to help prevent system failure and large expenses. Even for new systems, we need to compare to the baseline, monitor refrigerant levels, check mechanical performance, confirm the condensate pvc is clear, look for burnt wires or copper tube-rub, etc. Many issues often go unnoticed by a homeowner, but can be easily found and fixed proactively with minimal effort and cost.
How often should I get routine maintenance?
Annually at a minimum for cooling. Heating inspections depend on if you have gas and/or how much you use the heater, where the flame sensors may need cleaning on a routine basis. Worth a discussion based on your equipment, usage, and preference.
Is Super-Cooling a good idea?
No! Initially advised by the utility companies, the intent was for the system to only be set 3 degrees below/above desired set-point. Instead, homeowners opt to set the temp too low during off-peak and then turn way up or off during on-peak. The net result is long run-times that can get the coils too cold and cause rusting/icing/fractures/leaks, resulting in costly coil replacements and lessening overall system life. A little utility savings today will be far outweighed by repairing or replacing a system prematurely.
Why is there ice on my system, preventing cooling?
Accumulation of ice is typically due to lack of airflow or a refrigerant issue, and frequent icing can fracture coils and cause refrigerant leaks. Turn the system off for a few hours so any ice can melt, change your dirty filter, and then see if the system cools. If not, further diagnosis is required to determine if the coils are dirty, the blower failed, refrigerant is leaking, etc. Another common cause is in a zoning application with one system and multiple thermostats. If the equipment does not have a variable speed compressor and therefore the ability to adjust capacity to match demand, the thermostats should not be set at any more than 2-3 degrees of each other.
Where does my condensate drain?
During humid months, the system removes humidity from the home, producing condensate. There are various ways this water exits the home thru pvc piping. Rooftop systems often have pvc extending to the roof edge, or down the attic into vent pipe. Split systems with an attic application often have a lower (primary) and an upper (secondary) pvc pipe on the exterior of the home. Some pvc pipes drain into sinks. Know where your condensate drains and ensure you see water dripping from the exit point (where visible) to avoid water damage to the ceiling, floors, or roof.
How long should a system last?
With proper maintenance, heat pumps should last 12-15 years. Systems with gas heat may yield 15-18 years. As a system ages, it is less efficient & less reliable, and will increase your electric bill. In fact, the HVAC uses the most electricity in the home, second to a pool pump. We always recommend proactive replacement of older systems in the Fall/Winter so you have time to make the most informed decisions, maximize any discounts, and can stay in your home during the installation without the need for heating or cooling.
Why is a new system so expensive?
When choosing a reliable brand, a QUALITY installation, and reliable servicing, a considerable investment is required! Additionally, during the 2020-2025 timeframe, wholesale costs increased over 40% from the cumulative impact of supply chain issues, new efficiency requirements, major refrigerant/equipment changes, and short-term tariff impacts.
I am remodeling my home. Are there extra precautions I should take for my HVAC system?
Any particulate-producing activities from drywall, paint, flooring, etc. can easily damage your system. Do not run the system during these activities, or at least change the filters daily/weekly and keep the set-temperature higher for less run-time. For outdoor remodeling, do not allow any equipment to be covered without it being turned off.
I am getting a new roof. Are there extra precautions I should take for my HVAC system located on the roof?
Your roofer may shift the system to work around/under it. If the roofer does not coordinate with us during the effort, we should inspect afterwards to ensure the pvc condensate piping, ductwork, and wiring was properly put back into place to avoid air leakage, improper condensate drainage, or system failure.
I am buying a home. Do I really need an HVAC inspection if the home inspector checked the system?
YES! A home inspector covers <5% of what we would do for a full HVAC inspection. Often the home inspection report will give the “differential split” and maybe a picture of a nameplate. There are so many other indicators of system health to be evaluated, plus we can determine if any warranty coverage is transferrable to you. You will also want to establish a baseline of system performance to compare to in future routine maintenance visits.
I just bought a newly constructed home. What do I need to do for the HVAC system?
Ensure the system was timely registered for maximum warranty coverage, often converting a 5 year term to 10 year coverage. Have the installing company perform routine maintenance for the first two years to rectify any workmanship issues.
Should I renew my home warranty in case my old HVAC system breaks for good?
Home warranty coverage will most often look for repair or partial replacement options on even the oldest, inefficient systems. Often a surcharge will be applied when refrigerant is required. When it comes time for full replacement, there may be an option to “cash out” so you can select your own contractor/equipment, but that typically covers <25% of the installation costs with providers outside the home warranty network. We advise saving the cost of renewal and putting it toward future system replacement so you can control all aspects of the process.